Emmanuel des Essarts quotes:

Take advantage of the gracious condescension of the elegant calf's kidney, multiply its metamorphoses: you can without giving it any offence, call it the chameleon of cuisine.

Make an amiable intermediary of an egg, which comes between the various parts of food to bring about difficult reconciliations.

The benevolence of wrapping the partridge in a vine leaf brings out its quality, just as the barrel of Diogenes brought forth the qualities of the great thinker.